Published by Bloomberg Businessweek
Before India's elections in 2019, I travelled with journalist Archana Chaudhary along the Ganges in India. We began in Uttarkhand, the northern mountainous range from where the Bhagirathi flows to become the Ganges and journeyed with it down until Kolkata, where it opens out as an international trade route. In each state we visited, we spoke to the people about the river, about lives and beliefs that emerge from it and sustain it. And how our current political climate was exploiting this, through religion and economics.
We sang on boats, narrated mythologies and debated spirituality as the Ganges slowly watched upon us and our journey.
To read the text by Archana Chaudhary please visit the link below :
https://www.bloomberg.com/features/2019-ganges-journey/?srnd=premium-asia

Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India. The ganges followed us along this beautiful drive before we reached the Tehri Dam.
Photograph by Anshika Varma


Construction work is in full force along the highway for Prime Minister Narendra Modi's Char Dham Highway project. The project has received wide criticism for its environmental impact to the land. Drive from Dehra Dun to Bhatwari in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Construction work is in full force along the highway forPrime Minister Narendra Modi's Char Dham Highway project. The project has received wide criticism for its environmental impact to the land. Drive from Dehra Dun to Bhatwari in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follo
ws us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Drive from Dehra Dun to Bhatwari in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Drive from Dehra Dun to Bhatwari in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga.
Photograph by Anshika Varma
A local resident waits for her bus ride as we drive from Dehra Dun to Bhatwari in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma


Construction work is in full force along the highway forPrime Minister Narendra Modi's Char Dham Highway project. The project has received wide criticism for its environmental impact to the land. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Construction work is in full force along the highway forPrime Minister Narendra Modi's Char Dham Highway project. The project has received wide criticism for its environmental impact to the land. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma

View of the Gan
ges when it reaches Haridwar, Uttarakhand. Photograph by Anshika Varma
View of the Ganges when it reaches Haridwar, Uttarakhand. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Swami Shivanand Saraswati, founder and senior seer of the Matri Sadan Ashram in Haridwar, Uttarakhand. Photograph by Anshika Varma



Swami Shivanand Saraswati, founder and senior seer of the Matri Sadan Ashram in Haridwar, Uttarakhand
. He is standing next to a small outlet behind the ashram where he can access the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma


View along the Kosi as we drive from Allahabad to Patna.

View along the Kosi as we drive from Allahabad to Patna.


Almost all tanneries in Kanpur have been asled to close down operations for about 6 months today as part of PM Modi's Clean Ganga campaign. This has resulted in massive financial losses for the industry which is largely run by the muslim community in Uttar Pradesh India.

Almost all tanneries in Kanpur have been asled to close down operations for about 6 months today as part of PM Modi's Clean Ganga campaign. This has resulted in massive financial losses for the industry which is largely run by the muslim community in Uttar Pradesh India.


Triveni Sangam in Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh has started dismantling all structures created for the Ardh Kumbh Mela. In Hindu tradition Triveni Sangam is the "confluence" (Sangam in Sanskrit) of three rivers- the ganges, the yamuna and the saraswati. The point of confluence is a sacred place for Hindus, with a bath here said to flush away all of one's sins and free one from the cycle of rebirth.

Pilgrims come to visit and take a holy dip at Triveni Sangam in Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. In Hindu tradition Triveni Sangam is the "confluence" (Sangam in Sanskrit) of three rivers- the ganges, the yamuna and the saraswati. The point of confluence is a sacred place for Hindus, with a bath here said to flush away all of one's sins and free one from the cycle of rebirth.

Pilgrims come to visit and take a holy dip at Triveni Sangam in Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. In Hindu tradition Triveni Sangam is the "confluence" (Sangam in Sanskrit) o
f three rivers- the ganges, the yamuna and the saraswati. The point of confluence is a sacred place for Hindus, with a bath here said to flush away all of one's sins and free one from the cycle of rebirth.
First time voters arrive to visit and take a holy dip at Triveni Sangam in Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. Although they are not in support of the ruling parties ideologies, they are not confident to vote for any other candidate in the coming elections.

Everyday life along the Assi Ghat in Benaras, Uttar Pradesh, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Everyday life along the Assi Ghat in Benaras, Uttar Pradesh, India. Photograph by
Anshika Varma
Everyday life along the creamtion Ghats in Benaras, Uttar Pradesh, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Over 300 homes have been cleared in this neighbourhood to make a new passage for the Dashaswame
dh temple. Photograph by Anshika Varma
Over 300 homes have been cleared in this neighbourhood to make a new passage for the Dashaswame
dh temple. Photograph by Anshika Varma





The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flyash and steel. Photograph by Anshika Varma

The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flyash and steel. Photograph by Anshika Varma

The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilo
metres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flyash and steel. Photograph by Anshika Varma

The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flyash and steel. Photograph by Anshika Varma



