Published by Bloomberg Businessweek


Before India's elections in 2019, I travelled with journalist Archana Chaudhary along the Ganges in India. We began in Uttarkhand, the northern mountainous range from where the Bhagirathi flows to become the Ganges and journeyed with it down until Kolkata, where it opens out as an international trade route. In each state we visited, we spoke to the people about the river, about lives and beliefs that emerge from it and sustain it. And how our current political climate was exploiting this, through religion and economics.


We sang on boats, narrated mythologies and debated spirituality as the Ganges slowly watched upon us and our journey.






To read the text by Archana Chaudhary please visit the link below :


https://www.bloomberg.com/features/2019-ganges-journey/?srnd=premium-asia

Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India. The ganges followed us along this beautiful drive before we reached the Tehri Dam.

Photograph by Anshika Varma
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View of the tehri Dam, from the road. The Tehri Dam is the highest dam in India and one of the highest in the world. It is a multi-purpose rock and earth-fill embankment dam on the Bhagirathi River near Tehri in Uttarakhand, India.   The Bhagirathi river,
View of the tehri Dam, from the road. The Tehri Dam is the highest dam in India and one of the highest in the world. It is a multi-purpose rock and earth-fill embankment dam on the Bhagirathi River near Tehri in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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View of the tehri Dam, from the road. The Tehri Dam is the highest dam in India and one of the highest in the world. It is a multi-purpose rock and earth-fill embankment dam on the Bhagirathi River near Tehri in Uttarakhand, India.   The Bhagirathi river,
View of the tehri Dam, from the road. The Tehri Dam is the highest dam in India and one of the highest in the world. It is a multi-purpose rock and earth-fill embankment dam on the Bhagirathi River near Tehri in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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​Construction work is in full force along the highway forPrime Minister Narendra Modi's Char Dham Highway project. The project has received wide criticism for its environmental impact to the land. Drive from Dehra Dun to Bhat

Construction work is in full force along the highway for Prime Minister Narendra Modi's Char Dham Highway project. The project has received wide criticism for its environmental impact to the land. Drive from Dehra Dun to Bhatwari in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma

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Construction work is in full force along the highway forPrime Minister Narendra Modi's Char Dham Highway project. The project has received wide criticism for its environmental impact to the land. Drive from Dehra Dun to Bhatwari in Uttarakhand, India.  Th

Construction work is in full force along the highway forPrime Minister Narendra Modi's Char Dham Highway project. The project has received wide criticism for its environmental impact to the land. Drive from Dehra Dun to Bhatwari in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follo

ws us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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Drive from Dehra Dun to Bhatwari in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Drive from Dehra Dun to Bhatwari in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma

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Drive from Dehra Dun to Bhatwari in Uttarakhand, India.  The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Drive from Dehra Dun to Bhatwari in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma

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Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India.  The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga.

Photograph by Anshika Varma
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Drive from Dehra Dun to Bhatwari in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma

A local resident waits for her bus ride as we drive from Dehra Dun to Bhatwari in Uttarakhand, India. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma

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Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma
Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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Construction work is in full force along the highway forPrime Minister Narendra Modi's Char Dham Highway project. The project has received wide criticism for its environmental impact to the land. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a p

Construction work is in full force along the highway forPrime Minister Narendra Modi's Char Dham Highway project. The project has received wide criticism for its environmental impact to the land. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma

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Construction work is in full force along the highway forPrime Minister Narendra Modi's Char Dham Highway project. The project has received wide criticism for its environmental impact to the land. The Bhagirathi river, follows us along the path opening a passage to understand the complex history and context of the Ganga. Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma

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View of the Ganges when it reaches Haridwar, Uttarakhand. Photograph by Anshika Varma

View of the Gan

ges when it reaches Haridwar, Uttarakhand. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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View of the Ganges when it reaches Haridwar, Uttarakhand. Photograph by Anshika Varma

View of the Ganges when it reaches Haridwar, Uttarakhand. Photograph by Anshika Varma

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Swami Shivanand Saraswati, founder and senior seer of the Matri Sadan Ashram in Haridwar, Uttarakhand. Photograph by Anshika Varma ​

Swami Shivanand Saraswati, founder and senior seer of the Matri Sadan Ashram in Haridwar, Uttarakhand. Photograph by Anshika Varma

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Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma
Drive from Bhatwari to Haridwar in Uttarakhand, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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Swami Shivanand Saraswati, founder and senior seer of the Matri Sadan Ashram in Haridwar, Uttarakhand. He is standing next to a small outlet behind the ashram where he can access the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Swami Shivanand Saraswati, founder and senior seer of the Matri Sadan Ashram in Haridwar, Uttarakhand

. He is standing next to a small outlet behind the ashram where he can access the Ganga. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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Everyday life along the burning ghats and cremation ground along the Ganges in Kanpur, Uttar Pradesh. Photograph by Anshika Varma
Everyday life along the burning ghats and cremation ground along the Ganges in Kanpur, Uttar Pradesh. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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The city of Allahabad, Prayagraj, has been restored and given a new look for the ongoing Kumbh Mela. Photograph by Anshika Varma
The city of Allahabad, Prayagraj, has been restored and given a new look for the ongoing Kumbh Mela. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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​View along the Kosi as we drive from Allahabad to Patna.

View along the Kosi as we drive from Allahabad to Patna. 

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​View along the Kosi as we drive from Allahabad to Patna.

View along the Kosi as we drive from Allahabad to Patna.

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Naiyer Jamal, Partner of the Makhdoom Tanning Industries in Jajmau Kanpur which has been shut since Mid-December 2018. He is also the General Secretary of the Small Tanners Association of Kanpur. Photograph by Anshika Varma
Naiyer Jamal, Partner of the Makhdoom Tanning Industries in Jajmau Kanpur which has been shut since Mid-December 2018. He is also the General Secretary of the Small Tanners Association of Kanpur. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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Almost all tanneries in Kanpur have been asled to close down operations for about 6 months today as part of PM Modi's Clean Ganga campaign. This has resulted in massive financial losses for the industry which is largely run b

Almost all tanneries in Kanpur have been asled to close down operations for about 6 months today as part of PM Modi's Clean Ganga campaign. This has resulted in massive financial losses for the industry which is largely run by the muslim community in Uttar Pradesh India. 

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Almost all tanneries in Kanpur have been asled to close down operations for about 6 months today as part of PM Modi's Clean Ganga campaign. This has resulted in massive financial losses for the industry which is largely run b

Almost all tanneries in Kanpur have been asled to close down operations for about 6 months today as part of PM Modi's Clean Ganga campaign. This has resulted in massive financial losses for the industry which is largely run by the muslim community in Uttar Pradesh India.

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Pilgrims come to visit and take a holy dip at Triveni Sangam in Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. In Hindu tradition Triveni Sangam is the "confluence" (Sangam in Sanskrit) of three rivers- the ganges, the yamuna and the saraswati. The point of confluence is a sa
Pilgrims come to visit and take a holy dip at Triveni Sangam in Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. In Hindu tradition Triveni Sangam is the "confluence" (Sangam in Sanskrit) of three rivers- the ganges, the yamuna and the saraswati. The point of confluence is a sacred place for Hindus, with a bath here said to flush away all of one's sins and free one from the cycle of rebirth.
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Triveni Sangam in Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh has started dismantling all structures created for the Ardh Kumbh Mela. In Hindu tradition Triveni Sangam is the "confluence" (Sangam in Sanskrit) of three rivers- the ganges, the yamuna and the saraswati. The point of confluence is a sacred place for Hindus, with a bath here said to flush away all of one's sins and free one from the cycle of rebirth.

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Pilgrims come to visit and take a holy dip at Triveni Sangam in Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. In Hindu tradition Triveni Sangam is the "confluence" (Sangam in Sanskrit) of three rivers- the ganges, the yamuna and the saraswati. The point of confluence is a sa

Pilgrims come to visit and take a holy dip at Triveni Sangam in Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. In Hindu tradition Triveni Sangam is the "confluence" (Sangam in Sanskrit) of three rivers- the ganges, the yamuna and the saraswati. The point of confluence is a sacred place for Hindus, with a bath here said to flush away all of one's sins and free one from the cycle of rebirth.

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Pilgrims come to visit and take a holy dip at Triveni Sangam in Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. In Hindu tradition Triveni Sangam is the "confluence" (Sangam in Sanskrit) of three rivers- the ganges, the yamuna and the saraswati. The point of confluence is a sa

Pilgrims come to visit and take a holy dip at Triveni Sangam in Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. In Hindu tradition Triveni Sangam is the "confluence" (Sangam in Sanskrit) o

f three rivers- the ganges, the yamuna and the saraswati. The point of confluence is a sacred place for Hindus, with a bath here said to flush away all of one's sins and free one from the cycle of rebirth.
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First time voters arrive to visit and take a holy dip at Triveni Sangam in Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh. Although they are not in support of the ruling parties ideologies, they are not confident to vote for any other candidate in the coming elections. 

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Everyday life along the Assi Ghat in Benaras, Uttar Pradesh, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Everyday life along the Assi Ghat in Benaras, Uttar Pradesh, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma

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Everyday life along the Assi Ghat in Benaras, Uttar Pradesh, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Everyday life along the Assi Ghat in Benaras, Uttar Pradesh, India. Photograph by

Anshika Varma
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Everyday life along the cremation Ghat in Benaras, Uttar Pradesh, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Everyday life along the creamtion Ghats in Benaras, Uttar Pradesh, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma

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Over 300 homes have been cleared in this neighbourhood to make a new passage for the Dashaswamedh temple. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Over 300 homes have been cleared in this neighbourhood to make a new passage for the Dashaswame

dh temple. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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Over 300 homes have been cleared in this neighbourhood to make a new passage for the Dashaswame

dh temple. Photograph by Anshika Varma

Over 300 homes have been cleared in this neighbourhood to make a new passage for the Dashaswame

dh temple. Photograph by Anshika Varma 

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Life along River Kosi while travelling from Uttar Pradesh to Patna. Photograph by Anshika Varma
Life along River Kosi while travelling from Uttar Pradesh to Patna. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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Coal being transported along the Uttar Pradesh, Bihar border. Photograph by Anshika Varma
Coal being transported along the Uttar Pradesh, Bihar border. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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Morning routines at Mullick Ghat in Kolkata. With close proximity to the Howrah Bridge, the ghat shares its history with the famous flower market of the city. The drain at Mullick Ghat is  where the government plans to use bioremidiation techniques to imp
Morning routines at Mullick Ghat in Kolkata. With close proximity to the Howrah Bridge, the ghat shares its history with the famous flower market of the city. The drain at Mullick Ghat is where the government plans to use bioremidiation techniques to improve the quality of water waste that goes in to the Ganges. The ghat has many visitors in the morning who come to bathe and wash their clothes resulting in chemical detergents and soap waste flowing into the ganges from the ghat. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today,

The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flyash and steel. Photograph by Anshika Varma

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The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today,

The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flyash and steel. Photograph by Anshika Varma

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The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flya

The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilo

metres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flyash and steel. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flya
The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flyash and steel. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today,

The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flyash and steel. Photograph by Anshika Varma

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The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flya
The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flyash and steel. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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Prof. K.J Nath, former member of the National Ganga River Basin Auhtority at his office in Kolkata, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma
Prof. K.J Nath, former member of the National Ganga River Basin Auhtority at his office in Kolkata, India. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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Boatmen taking tourists along the Princep Ghats in Kolkata. In the backdrop on can see the relatively new Hoogly Bridge. Photograph by Anshika Varma
Boatmen taking tourists along the Princep Ghats in Kolkata. In the backdrop on can see the relatively new Hoogly Bridge. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flya
The Port of Kolkata is a riverine port in the city of Kolkata, India, located around 203 kilometres (126 mi) from the sea. It is the oldest operating port in India and was constructed by the British East India Company. Today, the port largely exports flyash and steel. Photograph by Anshika Varma
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